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  #1 Old 08-31-2013, 03:46 PM
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Default Little about carding


New name and number, but still awesome quality! Now I have a 150 Megs Hard-
Drive, and a USRobotics 19.2k modem, so ALL baud rates are now accepted!! I
still am only Hack/Phreak/Anarchy, so all those megs are for text files only!
The board is not in any group as of yet... and no definant plans are in the
works... One guy called up my answering machine and said "Gee, looks like you
can do some good ASCII art, it's too bad you can't format the files...", well,
since he was so kind as to not mention who he was or what type of computer he
was using I must assume one of three things, that either: he is running on a
C64 and in 40 (yes, these are formatted in 80), his file reader does not accept
line feeds, or he forgot to say [L]inefeeds when he logged onto the board.


There are many aspects to carding, only a few of which will be discussed
in this file. There might be some more files on this subject by me if there's
positive feedback about it. Most of these are found out by experience, but
some stuff I've just heard about, but never tried. Enough with this, on with
the file...


Make sure you PLAN AHEAD! If you are familiar with everything, you won't
run AS MUCH of a risk. Find a good drop house (discussed later in file) and
get a good card! The best companies to order things from are the ones in the
back of computer magazines, or almost any small business, because they don't
have the knowhow/ability/equiptment to usually realize what's happening. As
in the case of the Sharper Image Co., their computer system is down alot of
the time, and their employes will tell you with a little proding. If that is
the case, ABUSE THEM! They only check to see if there is enough credit on the
card. One thing to remember, NEVER HANG UP ONE QUESTION! Just say something
like, I'm not sure, it's my wife's credit card or try to wing it. But hanging
up is instant death to the card.


Computer companies are the hardest to card from, because of one reason...
Johnny Rodent (you know, the guy with the Vic-20 and 50 Baud modem) gets a
card and decides he want to get something, and what is that something you ask?
Well, computer equiptment of course! So the companies have protected them-
Martial Arts/Weopontry places are also hard to card from... I've gotten hell
from some of those places trying to get stuff!
Electronics places always tend to be hard to card from, for the same reason
as the computer companies. They've been burnt too much.


One of the more tricky questions you might get from a pushy operator is a
request for a drivers license. Now that's just great if you stole some guys
wallet, but most of the time you just get the number, not even the actual
card. My favorite answer is to say I was arrested for drunk driving and my
license was revoked, they almost always by that. Sometimes they also want a
work phone number, the best thing to say is that you are either unemployed, or
work at home. And a good voice phone number is one like for a law offices
facsimilie Machine, and tell'em you use your Fax every once in a while. If
you've attempted to card something from a company, had it go bad, and then
tried again, only to find out that they saved the address and won't ship it, a
good method around that is to give ANYONE's address (even your schools) and
then call UPS and tell them to forward all packages for John Doe to your drop
house. If the UPS guy requires a signature, then just leave a note on the door
saying something like you work a swing shift and can't always be home, but you
take full responsibility and for them just to leave it in the back.


The prime house is one which is vacant. A good way to find one is to either
drive around looking for one, call up reality offices and ask for one, or go
to condo's and find one that doesn't look lived in. Once you have located a
suitable spot, watch it and the neighborhood for about 1 week or more, watch
the traffic most of all and the activity of the residents. Now the hard parts


Do not let the packages stay at the house more than 2 days! If the UPS guy
comes back with more, he will notice something is wrong and take ALL the
packages. The bast way to get it is to go around during the day for about an
hour and watch the activity, if everything looks fine then wait til dusk and
go pick it up. If something is wrong, like people are watching you REALLY
closely, and no kids are playing in the area, then don't ever go back to the
house. Better safe then sorry!


All credit card verification numbers deduct the money from the credit. Then
they wait for a letter from the merchant to say what they bought. When that
letter doesn't arrive, they assume one of two things, either the store messed
up, or the merchant ID has been hacked. But they only think the previous if
there are ALOT of cancelations like that. Here are some valid verification
numbers, but no codes, so hackaway...

VISA/MASTERCARD - 1800-554-1111
MERCHANT ID - xxxxxxxxxxx
VISA/MASTERCARD - 1800-554-2265
BANK ID - xxxx
Here's one 1067
AMERICAN EXPRESS - 1800-528-2121
MERCHANT ID - xxxxxxxxxx
DISCOVER CARD - 1800-233-5656
MERCHANT ID - xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx


Of all the cards, Discover is the big loser, and if you get a company that
accepts it, then USE IT! It will almost always work! VISA's are my personal
favorites, although MC's are a fairly close second. Credit Cards from Over-
seas are also REAL good and you will get everything you order with those. The
best country for cards is Australia by far... Alot of carders there. Here is
the basic setup of most of the cards...

VISA 4xxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xx/xx
or 4xxx xxx xxx xxx xx/xx
MC 5xxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xx/xx
AMEX 3xxxx xxxx xxxxxx xx/xx
DISCOVER 6xxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xx/xx

Most of the time the Experation date is pretty worthless and is only used to
make sure you don't use the card past the date they set. You can get away with
saying anything, but it's always better to try to get the correct one. Names
are also as if'y as experation dates... It's always best to use the real name.


If you just want to fuck up a card, and it's a Discover, call up the Discover
Card validation number and ask for a "Code-10" authorization (wow, just like
James Bond!). Then just tell'em something like you are suspicious that it's
a stolen card.


3764-2 and 3764-3 Brazil
3707 Mexico
3770-00 thru 09 Venezuela and the Netherland Antilles
3770-20 thru 24 Venezuela and the Netherland Antilles
Cards starting with:
3770-10 thru 3770-19 and 3770-25 are from Venezuela but can be used
anywhere in the world.

Authorization Telephone Number: 1800-233-5656
1. Card Number
2. Merchant Number
3. Amount of Purchase
4. Experation Date
Discover Merchant Service Dept: 1800-322-4566

I'm sure at least once in life you've been watching one of those stupid
Television Shopping clubs and have seen something that you would like. Well,
with this company:
You can sit and hack out peoples Membership Number, much like you hack out
voice system codes. In my next carding file, I'll include a new number
game concerning this company. The accounts are 9 digits long, and seem to
all be around or under 180000000. The company keeps the persons name,
address, phone number, cc, etc all in their records, but the operators are
somewhat stupid and can most of the time be easily bullshitted into telling
you all the info you need to know. One stupidshit actually told me all of
the persons card numbers!

Shit, I couldn't begin to count the amount of times I've been asked "Which
card is best to use?". As far as I'm concerned, it's basicly personal
preference, although some cards have distinct advantages over others. Visas
and MC's are accepted by vertually EVERYONE, and are pretty easy to come by.
Discover cards, on the other hand, and hard for the companies to check,
therefor good for you. AmEx has the wonderful floating limit, so if you
John B. Spenders card, you can have hella fun. I use Visas most of the time,
and then MC, Discover, and A
card you know the most about will always be the best to use.

As if there isn't already enough verification numbers floating around in the
Hack/Phreak community, here are a few more... Remember, these DO deduct the
amount of money off of the card, and you should enter at lease $25 for a Visa
(which is the average floor limit) or $50 for any of the others. A smaller
amount will only draw more attention to your use of their account and either
help in busting you, killing your cards, or killing your account.
VISA/MC 1800-544-1111
Merch# : xxxx
MerchID : xxxxxxxxxx
AmEx 1800-528-2121
MerchID : xxxxxxxxx
Discover 1800-525-9040
MerchID : xxxxxxxxxx
Choice 1800-638-1592
MerchID : xxxxxxxxxxxx

You may have been foiled once or twice by a company that checks the number
by calling 555-1212 and seeing if it's registered to the cardholders name,
well, the only way around this is to give them a unlisted number, or, by
using CBI and a handy-dandy phone book, pull up a persons CC. This is only
in the case that they check the registration, and not that they call up the
place to check. If you really want to ensure everything goes ok, you can
autodial the person for 4 or 5 days, until the company ships the package off,
thus ensureing that the company doesn't get through, and if they do, chances
are the people won't answer!
If the company wants to call you back, keep a list of nearby payphone
numbers that they can call that you can wait at, usually you can ask a
company that if they are going to call you back, could they please call you
back right now, because otherwise it's hard for them to get in touch with
Another option available to the callback problem (when there is no l
available, or they don't say when they're gonna call back) is to have a number
call forward to your house. Or to be even more safe, have a number call
forward to a number that call forwards to your house. Or if you are using
a loop, and the person lives in your areacode/city, have THEIR number forward
to the loop, and call UPS and have them forward the packages from THEIR house
to your drophouse!!! This is an Exceptionally good method. The amount of
rerouting really makes it a hastle for the feds/cops to track you down. One
note on UPS forwarding, they will forward only 1 shipment, so if you are
shipping hella stuff to the house, make sure to space them about 1 week and
everytime you pick up a package, call UPS and forward again.
If you're into weapons (like me) and want some good places to get them from,
check out the file "Where to get Weopons", written by me, and available on
Ripco and my board for sure. One interesting twist it to call up the police
station, get an officers name & badge number (they are required to give them
to anyone who asks) and then use the phonebook and CBI to pull up their stats.
Once you get them, you can buy all that cool equiptment that says "Sold only
to Law Enforcement Personell." Also, alot of the Rifles available can be
bought with credit cards with little or no effort on your part. They don't
check your background record (such as criminal) very ofte
about that. If you decide to go for a Rifle, I would highly recommend the
AR-7 Survival Rifle (around $100), AK-47 Assualt Rifle (around $400), and
the Awesome USAS-12 Auto-Shotgun (around $800)!!! Here's just a few of the
stats on the USAS (taken from Special Weapons and Tactics):
Universal Sporting Automatic Shotgun
o Gas Operated o Available Semi or Full Auto
o Pistol Grip o Rapid Firing-360 rounds per minute
o Cylinder Bore Choke o Quick Reload option
o Reduced Felt Recoil o Multi-Projectile Capability
o Select fire Option o Single Round Lethality
Gauge- 12 Finish- Parkerized
Barrel- 18 1/4" Choke- Cylinder Bore
Length- 38" Shell Size- 2 3/4"
Weight- 12 Pound Magazine Cap- 10 round Box
20 round Drum

The gun vaguely resembles a M16-2a, but is about 1 1/2 the size. It got
great reviews from the Magazine, and I've shot it a few times and loved it.
It's currently being used by law enforcement in L.A. and Miami.
Also another good item to get is from Radio Shack (yes, they can make a
few good things other than 'cheap' parts), and is the 20 Channel Programmable
Scanner. Usually they will print out an updated list of all of the freq. in
your area (including local cops, security companies, etc...).

CBI is vaguely like TRW, with the same type of credit services, except some
companies have CBI cut off the last 2 to 4 digits of the card (2 AmEx, 4 Visa
and MC), but not ALL companies by far. Bank of America, and Citibank both
are missing the last few digits, and a few others do the same, but for the most
part, all the number is there, and the last 2 or 4 usually can be gained by
calling the person up and acting
4 digits of their card. Now to use CBI, you must have the following info:


Which is entered in this format:

Boulevard BLD
Street ST
Avenue AV
Lane LN
Court CT
Circle CIR
Park Way PY
Here's an Example:


Ronald McReagan nm-mcreagan,ronald. [RETURN]
123 Whitehouse Circle ca-123,whi,cir,washington dc,va,12110. [CTRL] S
Washington DC, VA

Now, if you have his social security number, then enter:


And you will get the persons Name, Address, and Age (even in the correct format
to be reentered). If you make a mistake at any time while you're typing, just
continue on like nothing was entered wrong and then once it says nonexistant
person, reenter it. Now every time you connect to CBI and logon, it will reply
XXXX-proceed, if the XXXX is D2D2, then don't call back that day, but it's fine
to call back the next day. Try to limit each call to about 5-10 minutes, and
call during business hours of the port you're on, this will ensure the long
life of the account and your prosperity! The codes are in this format:
,.visa- are all constants, the # represent numbers, and the X represents a
letter. When connecting to CBI, connect at 1200 and at 1/2 duplex, once
connected, hit [CTRL] S and [RETURN] three times, then enter the code, and
hit [CTRL] S when done. CBI recognises ONLY lowercase letters, so no

It is also very easy to find new cards, etc by using the DTEC feature of
CBI and just typing in Social Security Numbers. After about 10 or so attempts
you usually will find 1 or 2 people, not bad considering you have ALL the
persons stats!

One interesting note relating to CBI, ask some of your friends
for their Social Security number. Tell them that you will do a magic trick
with it or something stupid like that. Then, pull up their CBI records, and
Wala! You now have a fake Identity, Name, Age, Birthdate, etc... I always
keep 10-12 on hand in case of an emergency!
Also, CBI does not always give you the persons age, most of the time it
doesn't! And if you search out cards by using DTEC and guessing the number,
it's also possible to get 2 to 3 people all on the same Social Security #!
ES is also a Variable that is only listed when CBI feels it would be relavent
to a person being denied/given credit.

Here is what you would see if you entered DTEC xxx-xx-xxxx:

1/89,FA-1234,101,HY,SMITHVILLE,CA,95668,10/82 ES-PRESIDENT,USA
SS-xxx-xx-xxxx AGE 81&

Ok, FA means the First Address, and CA means Current Address. ES means
what his/her occupation is, SS is his Social Security number, and the date that
follows the addresses refers to the last date he was reported at that location.
One note on the ES response; it is not always on the record, so don't assume
that the person is unemployed.

* 009 CBI CRC #### LLLLLLLL AVE STE 120 CCCCCCCCCC VA 12110(xxx)xxx-xxxx
*REAGAN,RONALD,S SINCE 1/07/89 FAD 09/29/88 FN-xxx
1234,101,HY,SMITHVILLE,CA,95668,DAT RPTD 10/82
*SUM-08/88-10/88,PR/OI-NO,FB-NO, ACCTS:2,HC$0, 2-T
*INQS-CITICORPMD xxxxxxxxx 09/29/88 MERVYNS xxxxxxxx 10/07/87
SEARS xxxxxxxx 10/88 08/88 0 0 R1 02 I xxxx-xxxxxxxxxxxxx
CITICORPMCxxxxxxxx 10/88 08/88 12k 0 R7 06 I xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

In the above, most are the same as the DTEC, except, PR/OI means Prior
Convictions, EMP means the length he has been employed, ACCTS meand the number
of accounts (like if he had a Visa, MC, and Sears, he would have 3 ACCTS).
INQS stands for Inquires, and is followed by the name, ID code, and date the
file was researched. At the top, the line I slaughtered is the Address of his
local CBI building, followed by their phone number (call to get an INTERESTING
recording). RPTD stands for Last Reported User, and OPND is when the account
was opened. H/C somethimes stands for the highest amount that can be charged,
and the BAL stands for the current Balance. The 12k is $12,000 limit, and the
CITICORPMC just means CitiCorp Bank and MasterCard (wow, so hard to figue out).
ECON refers to who can use the card, I for Individual, J for Joint (Which
usually means the person is married), and A for Authorized. As for the rest,
you're on your own. One thing to also keep in mind, just because it's says
CitibankVS, doesn't mean it's a Citibank Visa Card, it could also be a Card
that Citibank has put a waver on.

Although I personally have never played too much with this, I have known
quite a few Phreaks whom this has paid off for. This method involves you
calling up something, like Western Union, and telling them you're the card-
holder. Then, ship money off to another identity you have, to another
Western Union office. They do require identification, but I researched and
found out two interesting facts:
o A college Picture-ID will suffice (which can easily be
gained during an enrollment rush).
o You can also send money and tell them to ask you a certain
question that only you would know (such as the card holders
mothers maiden name (one of their favorites)) and then they
don't require any ID.
About as much as you can get safely in one shot is $500, but thing if you
live in a big city, you might have 4 or 5 Western Union locations, which
means $500 from each location, for a total of $2000-2500. The amount will
rise supprisingly fast. Try this no more then 2 weeks straight and then don't
touch it for about 3 or 4 months (the longer the better).

Now this method is about as good as it gets, and if you can't card and get
something via this method, then give up, because you suck. First, flip open
the local newspaper, and go straight to the obituaries (and you thought the
title of this section was just a play on words!). Then via 555-1212 find out
his phone number and address (or at least the number and then use a CN/A).
Then connect with CBI and pull up his records. Now it takes Visa
The power and gas company, about 1 month to shut down all of his services, so
for that month you can card stuff using his card to his address and then pick
it up from there. Keep in mind that he might have a wife, and a good indicator
is a Joint account.

On Mastercards, I'm sure you've all been asked for the four digit number
that appears on the top above the card number on the real card, and did the
worst thing possible, brain lock-hang up. Here are a few of the more common
identifiers that are around. One note: Identifiers almost always start with
either a 1 or a 6. And if you find any more, leave them to me in mail on any
System I call regularly.

1263 - Chemical Bank
1033 - Manufactures Hannover Trust
1035 - Citibank
6017 - MBNA
1665 - Chase Manhattan

One of the FBI, etc... Favorite ways of nailing your ass to the wall in self
incrimination. And we as Phreaks are almost always able to be drawn into
their trap. Thing I am always very careful of are people who you mention
something to and they know what something is in conjuction with, but not how
to aquire or use it. Also, I personally NEVER -sell- information!! By selling
it, you have just shoved a Dilldo with FBI written on it up your ass. They
love to thrash people who sell. Trading... Thats a different story. Always
be careful of someone who says they have Mob affiliation, for one simple
reason, Feds have somehow gotten it into their minds that phreaking and every-
thing that falls under that broad title is somehow affiliated wit
So when they say "Ya, I've got a great deal going on with the Mafia here in
Alabama", be wary. I also do not often associate with the Mob/Mafia. Don't
fuck with them, and they won't fuck with you.
One GPhile I HIGHLY recommend is written I believe by someone involved in
Phrack and concerns interrogation. It is on Ripco and is a Must for anyone
who is involved in illegal actions.
Never narc on a fellow phreak! No one hates a Narc more then the Phreak
community, and believe me, they have been known to fuck people up majorly due
to a speach impedament. When the cops say they'll give you a lighter sentence
or tell you if you confess, you'll walk, Tell them to fuck off. Cops don't
have the athority to do anything like that. And very rarely will then even
look twice if you name names.
Freelance Narcs are fairly common, and they are the perverbial 'Mercenary'
of the hack/phreak world. They are just every day people who sell info to
big businesses that are getting harrassed. And believe me, they can say/do
anything they want to get your info. These dudes are a Phreaks Nightmare.
If by some strange/demented/suicidal flaw in your character you decide to
start selling info, always be careful of how you get the money. I've known
of quite a few people who recieved more than money at Western Union offices.

One method with very good results from US Robotics is this one. What you
do is get a card with a totally off-the-wall bank on
any area code (although it is best if it's in your area). Then call up the
company and order something, now, if they ask for the banks number, you are
in business. Tell them the hi end of the loop and have a friend on the low
end who will say "John Doe Bank, may I help you?", make sure your friend has
all of the cards info so he can answer questions correctly. Then most of
the time, the company will ship the shit off, thinking everythings cool!

One extreamly nasty thing to do, is to card something someone you know has,
and then ask them to bring theirs over. When they leave the room, swap the
carded on with the legitimate one and wala, if you get busted, the serial
numbers on it and the carded item won't match and you can make up any old
story about how you aquired it.

Here's a few good books to pick up at your local library, if someone hasn't
already 5-fingured 'em.

1. You Can find Anyone - Eugene Ferraro
2. Finder's Fee - Ralph D. Thomas
3. How to find Missing Persons - Ronald George Eriksen II
4. The Computer and the Law - Unknown
5. The Laws and Legislation of Credit Card Fraud - Unknown (same as above)
6. Privacy Laws in the Computer Age - Unknown (same as above)

Books 4-5 are VERY good resource material for the laws of the US, and laws
that apply to only your state. Books 1-3 give you a good working idea of how
to re-find a persons credit stat

Want to play a game? Try this, I'll list a bunch of number, and you try to
find the pattern to the numbers, it may take a while, and a few steps, but
bare with it, the reward could be limitless!

6011000000001184 372816039941009
1275 084284008
00020283 108942003
0507 150981008
0804 158941004
1059 158941012
1083 181941005
1489 196982002
2040 223281014
3063 235913000
4392 269941000
4772 275901006
5175 290981009
8062 291281003
8138 379365009
00030126 403301004
1942 412271008
2288 424361003
2577 429171019
3583 436061005
4078 439311001
4185 442081005
5695 443951008
00501654 446361007
3551 455311000
5937 458723003
6331 469071004
6398 472131001
6893 477963002
00510234 486771032
0457 499171006
0655 504161000
1075 512841007
01001548 512842005
01500127 517731005
0275 531391000
2008 535711005
3857 536741001
3956 544911000
7320 546742007
7403 554301001
9474 565761003
02501371 569301004
4771 575911002
5091 584941008
5265 587261008
6156 595951004
6735 598162013
7428 600591001
7493 602071002
9291 627574006
9994 628421009
03501496 629051003
1645 630381001
1297 640162003
4390 650771008
6221 652081000
7286 677971003
9340 687931005
9951 720784007
04001602 730441002

Now some clues to this game are obvious, like in the second row, the third
to the last zero is always 0, and in the first row, in the 9th-12th digit
part, if it's the start of a thousand, it is either a X002 or 3, and it
always jumps in intervals of 50's, except for X050, which sometime will be
followed by a 1 (ex: X051).

Here's a list of Issueing banks via the first 4 digits on Visas and MC's.
Visas are on the Left, Mastercards on the Right.

4024 - Bank of America 5282 - Wells Fargo
4128 - Citicorp 5424 - Citibank
4302 - HHBC 5432 - Bank of New York
4310 - Imperial Savings 5410 - Wells Fargo
4317 - California Federal

I have found it very prosperous to go to Radio Shack and purchase a Scanner.
If you ask, they will usually supply you with a list of all the frequencies
used by cops, rent-a-cops, airports, fire depts, etc... Now, go to the High-
way partrols frequency and listen for when they call in a persons drivers
license, license plate, and name. Write these down and then flip over to the
outgoing channel, and listen. Copy down his name, address, etc.. and then
pull him up via CBI. Wala! You know have his Drivers license as well!

One method that still amazes me to see work is the Stop-N-Shop method. I
origionally concieved this about 6 months ago, and have been able to do it to
the same stores, over and over again. What you do is get some local loser
(He's got the dangerous part) and you go wait at some payphone. Then he goes
to somewhere like the Good Guys, or Curcuit City, or whatever and looks
around until he finds something like a portable CD player or Pocket TV, and
the he asks to call home (the payphone). You answer and pretend to be his
dad, and ask if you can just give your card number over the phone so your son
can get it right now. Most of the time they will allow you to do this, but
if they don't, you've commited no crime, and they have no proof it was you
at the payphone (therefor, saf
the loser something like "We'll pick up 6 things for me first, and then 3
things for you after that." If he doesn't agree, tell him you will go else-
where for help and he will most likely comply... And anyways, losers grow on
trees (or near Commie game sections of Computer stores). This method rates
a 8 on danger scale (for loser, 2 for you), and a 9 on the profit scale (It's
called 'Instant Gratification').



As we evolved as a society, we expanded out horizons and types of payments.
From a simple barter system, to one based on precious metals and gems, to one
based on currency, and finally to one of credit. A rather strange evolution,
trading something of true value for something of appied value, but a good
system just the same. Now lets talk a little more about the evolution of this
wonderful thing called credit. Way back in the middle ages stores offered
credit to the duke and monarchy of the area. Even further back than that in
ancient Greece there is actually some type of references towards credit...
Kinda wild if you think about it. But then, America and it's eternal
businessmen took this one step futher, and thus Visa and Mastercard were born.
Not born of nessecity, moreover lack of it, it was born of desire. Soon more
thought to capitalize on the success of the larger, and Discover, American
Express, Diners Club, Carte Blanch, etc... were created. So where is all this
leading? Who knows, but hopefully by understanding just a little about how it
came about, we can guess as to where it will go. Now one more time I'm back,
bringing to you what I feel is a new approach to and question as old as the
hills, but in most cases much more valuable: How can a make this work for ME?
As one great author said, In order to win at a game you must know the rules,
but knowing them doesn't mean you must play by them, but more appropriately
manipulate them to best suit you.


Well, this will be the final chapter in the infamous Carding My Way Trilogy
of Text files... I've really enjoyed writing these damn things, and listening
to all the comments that people made (except the bads ones, those people can
just burn in hell ahahaah), and I've learned quite a bit. Although I did get
busted, and am currently wanted in like 3 or more states by this time, that
doesn't mean you'll get caught. Just learn from other peoples mistakes
(specifically mine!), and remember, the years before you're 18 can be some of
the best and most profitable in your life. The reason I kind of target this
towards minors is the fact that is this wonderful counry we live in, you will
get little more then a slap on the wrist, and maybe a stern warning, whereas
in other countries, you could expect anything short of your hands being severed
at the wrists. So why not exploit this wonderful, God-given temporary immunity.
Think of all the sorry losers who don't figure this out until they turn 20 or
22 or some shit age.
As far as what computer system I recommend (although I don't realize why sooo
many people act like this is such an -IMPORTANT- part of carding) is the IBM.
I personally use an AWESOME notebook 386, and believe me, this little shit
hacks better than anything else I've owned (I wonder if I could modify an
AppleCat to work with it ... hmm ...). The IBM is just a nice, powerful
machine with alot of support as far as fraud goes, so now, just buy a computer
shopper, call up some stupid-shit company and say "I'll take 10 of you're IBM
386-20's please... Well, on second thought, make that 12."
One kind of interesting sidenote on this file is that I would personnally
like to thank Greyhound, since a good 3/4 th's of this was written while in
transit from one fraud site to the next. You really shouldn't put down this
type of travel, because the fact that you don't get ID'd ANYWHERE along the
way... So if you, John P. Hreaker (of course, that's your God-given name)
would like to travel incognito, so be it.
Here's a little something I would like to say about the re-insurgance on Text
files with those 'great' disclaimers on them.. Bravo for you, you've really
covered your ass. Here's what I think of them, in the form of my disclaimer:
Wow, I guess that just about covers how I feel on that subject. Just had to
cover my ass, you know?! Now here's just one more thing I have to say, about
users and the general way in which the H/P community has gone downhill. I
never used to see people cut down for asking questions before. I never saw
files written by people who knew absolutely nothing about what they were
writing (well, at least most weren't). And I saw an open and free information
swapping forum. I think that all of us should strive to become more open and
honest with ourselves, and others. And only by helping others can we achieve
a state of higher being... [boy, I sure feel wholesome]...


Tymnet is definantly a benifit to Frauders (Because that's what we are) all
across the country. When you don't have any codes, simply call the 800 or you
local port, sit on QSD (208057040540) for an hour or so, and you'll find that
you can not only get codes, but CBI's, TRW's, Dun & Bradstreets, Unix systems,
the list goes on and on... So next time you are lacking in the code department,
just give your friends at Tymnet a ring. And if you don't have an account?
Well, that's your problem, if you can't even get a lame Tymnet account, then I
really don't think you deserve to be on the system (like it's really any big
honor...). A system to get on, that is definantly more H/P oriented is Lutzfer,
but I won't list the number, if you deserve to be on it, it's not to hard to
There are some TRW business-pullers (just like the D&B) on Tymnet, which can
be a useful addition to anyone who already has a full-fledged CBI or TRW. This
can be used to your advantage by pulling the company the person works for (so
you know a little of the comps background for bullshitting), and then use the
SBAR command, enter his stats as they appeared on your first pullup, and wala!
You get a real nice, easy to understand explanation of all of his credit. No
numbers mind you, but that's why you do the primary pull with the other account.
Another benifit of this is when you pull a business, most of the time it lists
key employee's, like the chairman of the board, the board members, etc... Well,
all of these executives are no doubt high paid, and following that logic,
probably have VERY juicy virgin cards just waiting to be raped for all they are
worth! hahaa, and they said that rapeing and pillageing died with the
barbarians. There should be a group called the FRAUD BARBARIANS... hmmm...
The main thing about Tymnet is that it is almost never a primary tool, but
moreover a secondary tool, which can lead to and strenthen your main one.


I have had NO experience with these guys, although I believe as of this
writing they are the biggest... I would be interested in finding out all I
could about this system, and it's inherant weaknesses. If anyone has any info
on this system, please leave it to me in mail on any of the boards listed at
the end of this file.


Ok, as of late, I've seen a lot of files about CBI that don't tell SHIT about
it, and the people who wrote the files, are obviosly stupid as a piece of shit
and want to SEEM cool. Well, Although this is a Carding file, and although I
did go into CBI in some detail in my 2nd part, I'll put all the bullshit aside
and give you an IN-DEPTH overview, inview, sideview and all of views of CBI,
and it's abuses. I'm not going to mess around and explain to you how to logon
to the system, the other files don't fuck that up (and that is a miracle!).
Ok, first of all, lets define, I mean REALLY define the CBI account breakdown.


Now THAT is the format of a worthwhile CBI account! The first group of three
digits (ranging from 0-9) represent the location in the US where the firm is
located. Like 172 is Norther California, 180 Is around the Middle, etc... The
LL is a set of two letters that tell you what type of a firm this account is
for. Here's a list of what I have for sure...

AN - Car Dealerships BB - Bank-Related Accounts
CG - Clothing Stores DC - Department Stores
FA - Auto Manufaturing Loans FC - Federal Credit Unions
FF - Financial Services -Loans FZ - Student Loans
HF - Furniture Stores JA - Life Insurance
MH - Hospitals OC - Gas Cards/Companies
ON - Non-Revolving CC's RE - Real Estate Companies
RA - Apartment Complex's UE - Utilities (Like PG&E)
UT - Phone Services (Like MCI) YC - Collection Agencies
ZB - Credit Bureaus

And that is just a SMALL amount of all the 2 char ID's out there, but those are
definant. The last group of numbers are 2-5 in length, and represent the
branch of the company, or the company's main identifier. Then we get to the
-AA, which mean Alpha-Numeric... Now it doesn't take a genius to figure out
that it IS NOT Letter/Number, but and be EITHER letter or Number, both in the
set. Now also, so you don't sound like a fucking retard, this IS the password
to the account. Everything before this is worthless and can be gained from any
pullup, the PW and everything after that is the important part. Now if you
have just the password, that's ok, but it's a shitty account. Whenever you
will pull up an account, it will look like this (this account buffer taken from
a textfile on CBI that is only useful for learning how to logon, but NOTHING

*SMITH,ALAN,S SINCE 04/00/75 FAD 10/21/89 FN-700
SEX-M,MAR-M,DEPS- 2,AGE-38,SSS-012-34-5678

*SUM-01/85-01/91,PR/OI-NO,FB-NO, ACCTS:11,HC$6-1600, 3-ONES.

*INQS-450DC81 02/24/89,178BB20089 02/06/89.

03 S*178BB34860 11/90 05/85 500 171 521 139 R5 01 01 01 66 1234567890123456
PREV HI RATES: R4 10/90, R3 09/90, R2 08/90

Enought of this SHIT SHIT SHIT account, now lets look at what this would look
like if it had been pulled up with a REAL account...

*SMITH,ALAN,S SINCE 04/00/75 FAD 10/21/89 FN-700
SEX-M,MAR-M,DEPS- 2,AGE-38,SSS-012-34-5678

*SUM-01/85-01/91,PR/OI-NO,FB-NO, ACCTS:11,HC$6-1600, 3-ONES.

*INQS-SEACOASTEQ 181FM567 07/09/91 COMM CRED 181FF1498 05/17/90

SOUTHMARK *143FM28 07/91 03/87 91K 718 88K I1 31 J 1338367880
BOFA ALPHA*180BB26454 06/91 11/88 300 10 247 R1 22 I 302400942008

Ok, so I didn't even waste my time to make the bottom accounts the same, but
you get the idea... About the only thing that is the same between these pullups
is the start of it.... So the initals are useless huh? Only for losers. The
rest is the same, except for the addition of ECOA, which simply shows what type
of account it is (like on the shit-type method). BUT.. BUT.. You see the bank
name... Wow, kinda makes those guess-the-bank-by-the-first-4-digits pretty
useless. So don't cut yourself short in a trade of accounts, make sure you get
FULL information on the account. Some accounts have only fixed initials, but
some have floating, so what this means is that if you have one that does not
have the initials, there always is the chance that you can guess them.
Ok, IN is the area where you enter the operators initials... Usually you can
make this up, since rarely does it check for authorized users only..., the T is
one of the more crucial parts, it refers to the type of pull-up you want...

P - Primary Q - Inquery E - Employ I - Identify

P - Shows full stats including account Numbers
Q - Shows a more detailed list of previous INQS (if possible)
E - Shows basic info for Employer verification. Will include
Date of birth if 'P' does not.
I - Used to identify the individual. Doesn't generate an INQS

Most of the time you will use P, but play around with the other ones to get
an idea of what they do. Finally there is the ,,3. This simply tells CBI not
to cut off any of the numbers, unless it's already been chopped by the bank
(many banks now remove the last 4 digits from CBI accounts). Well, hopefully
this shed a LITTLE bit of light on the gross misrepresentation that CBI has
As far as the actual pulling up of the file, just read on of the others, even
they don't mess that up either. Ok, now that all of that has been basically
cleared up, I can continue on, with a clear heart & mind....
One thing which was true about CBI, but is no longer true, is that there are
alot of 300 baud ports. In actuality, there are very few, if any (I know of
-no- 300-only ports). 1200 baud is currently the standard, but many of the
ports are switching over to 2400. Moving right along...
Another change that will be occuring within CBI is the closeure of all of
their regional offices. CBI is going to consolidate to one fixed location in
Atlanta, Georgia. The reason they are doing this is, and I quote, "To lover
overhead costs, and also to increase security." So don't be too overly
suprised if CBI seems to be learning a few new tricks. The plan is to be
completed within 2-3 years, with most of the outlying sites already closed.
One nice note to this... If you live in Atlanta, look in the want adds, CBI's
hiring Data Entry personnel... Hmmmm....
Here's some of the companies that I have already identified... For your

AN - 171an700 Pittsburg Ford 171an809 Champion
171an866 Valsthrough 171an1294 BRWD Dodge
171an1336 Antioch 172an22 Biddulph Chevrolet
181an1102 West Coast Volvo 181an1706 CB Hyundai
402an1918 Bird Road Mazda 402an2791 Lexus
403an1248 Maroone Chevrolet 403an1289 Toyota HWD
444an4003 Precious Cars 728an787 Courtesy Cars
808an195 Florin Rd Nissan 808an334 Niello
826an409 Crest Pontiac 882an87 Scott Imperial
BB - 146bb513 Mtn Sts Bankcard 146bb1156 RMBC Visa Gold
146bb3228 HRSI N A 146bb11944 UBARAPAHOE
148bb917 Bank 1 Visa 155bb3747 Dicover Card
162bb1353 BoA Visa 162bb5388 Wells Fargo MC
162bb10365 Wells Fargo Visa 162bb11630 BoA TPL (Auto Loan)
162bb12121 BoA MC 162bb13102 Bank of the West (Loan)
162bb13157 1st Interstate -CA 162bb13521 First Interstate -CA
162bb14058 Wells Fargo 162bb16270 BoA MC Gold
162bb19097 Security Pacific 163bb2848 HIBERNIA Bank
163bb15083 Pacific Western 163bb17492 HBNA MC
163bb19463 FI Advance 163bb19891 First Deposit
171bb1238 Citibank FSB 178bb167 Maa Company MC
178bb2809 Mass Co. 180bb19701 Bank of California
180bb23812 BoA 180bb26454 BoA Alpha Account
180bb26908 1st Interstate -CA 180bb27195 Security Pacific
402bb1208 SE Bank NA 403bb1876 Barnett Bank
404bb182 1st Card Visa 404bb2568 Monogram Georgia
405bb280 Marine MID 426bb1895 MH Visa
444bb3469 Chemical of NJ 605bb4043 Spring National
613bb1199 Integrated 674bb1065 Bank 1
728bb5506 Barnett Bank 728bb10304 NCNB National Bank
850bb1555 CFB Visa 882bb112 Barnett International
898bb49 1st Interstate -MT 905bb587 Chase USA
906bb40 CitiBank MC 906bb115 CitiBank
906bb289 CitiBank PRVS 906bb1659 CitiBank
906bb1808 CitiBank MC Gold 906bb5130 Amex Optima
CG - 146cg11 Fashion BR 728cg54 Colony Shop
772cg167 Adothrdims 832cg159 Added Dimensions
905cg358 Lane Bryant 906cg68 Lerners
DC - 146dc39 May D&F 161dc146 Mervyns
162dc392 Emporium 162dc400 Macys
180dc93 Bullocks 180dc127 May Company
180dc143 Robinson's 180dc184 Broadway
180dc440 Robinson's 180dc929 Bullocks
402dc114 J Bryon's 404dc21 Bloomingdales
444dc49 Macys 496dc12 Wanamakers
701dc529 Nordstroms 701dc750 The Bon
728dc31 Burdines 728dc668 Jordan Mars
774dc32930 Maison Blare 805dc61 Belk Center
808dc308 Weinstocks 906dc29 Sears
906dc52 Maas Brothers 906dc86 Maison Blane
906dc136 Wards 906dc151 Lord & Tay
906dc185 JC Penneys 906dc193 JC Penneys
FA - 161fa28 Ford Motorcomp. 168fa13 Volkswagon Lease
180fa587 Nissan 402fa53 Ford Motorcomp.
402fa1069 GMAC 403fa1043 World OMNI
826fa162 Lincoln/Mercury 906fa26 Crysler
906fa34 GMAC 906fa67 Toyota MTR
FC - 161fc1552 Tech Visa 162fc2062 Patelco CU
162fc2112 Safe America 162fc2401 Patelco CU Visa
163fc446 Tech FCU 180fc403 Whittaker CU
402fc69 FPL CU 634fc91 Fort Lee CU
753fc364 UNIWYD EFCU 906fc172 United Airlines CU
FF - 163ff4908 Crysler 1st 163ff5905 AFS REV
171ff617 Crysler 1st 181ff1498 Comm Credit
404ff932 GECAP-LVTZ 458ff10 Whirlpool
FZ - 162fz938 First Deposit 180fz910 Student Loan
491fz18008 SLMA-LSCY 608fz2147 TG Loan Services

That sould give you a few to fiddle with, and one of the most important, BB is
included... Of course! I will be releasing shortly an file with just the CBI
listings, the above includes, plus alot more, all the way from AA to ZZ... So
no one get the wise idea to use these in your own (don't be a loser). If you
find any of these that aren't correct (although I doubt there are any mistakes)
please leave me some mail somewhere, so I can fix it right up. You might ask
the reason why I chose to include these, or am planning and upcoming release
for just these... Well, the answer is, we con't always get the complete account,
so with these, it's the second best thing! All those but the most obsure
companies will be on the list, so as to make your fraudulant life much, much
more easier...
Ok, as far as finding people to abuse... Well, Rich people in your area is
one good way, akthough I personnally prefer the hit-and-miss method of just
dtec'ing the person (explained in the social security portion of this file).


Western Union and MoneyGram are both card-to-cash organizations, where with
someones card, and properly altered billing infomation, one can receive large
abouts of money. There are certain limitations though, Western Union accepts
Visa/MC, and does call back, and will blacklist the recievers name after 3 or
4 abuses. MoneyGram, on the other hand, is run by American Express (your
friend and mine), and accepts card sends ONLY on the AmEx Optima card. Just a
little blast from the past, but I can remember when ever card was abused about
the same... Now, It seems AmEx realized just what security means. Anyways,
all you have to do is find someone 50 or more miles away (or just drive that
far away), the further the farther. Call from your location, have them call
back a payphone, and send the money to your friend in the other city. You are
given the choice of using a test question if the person doesn't have ID...
Don't EVER use a test question on a carding, it will never go through, they do
way to much checking on it, and you will have just wasted a card. I know lots
of people who recieve big money on their real ID's and have had no problems...
Hell, I myself had, And one note on blacklisting, they only blacklist for
around 2 to 3 months, and it seems to be regional, so if you can drive to
another state, you should have no problem.
Different days of the week change the security of the company (at least it
does for MoneyGram, and I believe WU is the same). Weekends the rate at which
they REALLY check into things is $200 up, whereas on MON-THU it's more along
the lines of $500 up. Friday is the worst, at around $100 up. These are not
exact, and do fluxuate from week to week, depending on how many frauds they
have had the past month... Easy enough, but once again AmEx shows a little
Right now I would like to get a hold of the IBM program that all the check
cashing places use. With this we could figure out EXACTLY how there system
works, and there is NEVER a callback with the program. If anyone works for a
place that uses this software, or knows someone who has morals which are
questionable, please contact me. I will make it very worthwhile for you to do
There are computer systems for both of these, but I have been into neither
of them (although I sure as hell would like to)... I'm thinking of working for
a check cashing place to a week or so, just long enough to get the info I need,
then WHAM... I'll rape them to! FRAUD BARBARIANS - HOO! The only problem with
me doing it is if they do any real extensive background checks they will
realize I'm not who I say I am (it's not like I'm going to waste a real good
identity on a shit place like that).


Social Security numbers are rapidly becoming the country's uniform ID,
now on almost any aplication you see the little space (11 spaces, to be
exact), and almost everyone mindlessly puts this down. Now the beauty of
this is the fact that it makes it real easy to pick people outside your
respective areas. Now what is the benifit of pulling someone by their
social, instead of their address? you ask... Well, unless you are traveling
to new cities every week or two (like me), you are going to identify what
city you are located in by your pullups, Sooo, by just entering semi-random
socials, you hit ALL OVER this wonderful country of ours, and make it very
hard for them to get a positive idea of where you are going to pull from
next. Included is a list of all the social security states, and the numbers
they were on as of 1988. Remember, the first 3 digits represent the state it
was ISSUED in, the middle two represent the year it was ISSUED in (not to be
confused with the persons actual age, although you usually can hit within your
target age within a 10 yr span). The last set of four are just random numbers,
so just guess guess guess your little heart out. (This wonderful little list
is an excerpt from the book: The Outlaw Report)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
001-003 New Hampshire 001-68
004-007 Maine 007-80
008-009 Vermont 009-64
010-034 Massachusetts 013-64
035-039 Rhode Island 037-52
040-049 Connecticut 047-76
050-134 New York 129-66
135-158 New Jersey 157-76
159-211 Pennsylvania 204-62
212-220 Maryland 219-04
221-222 Delaware 221-68
223-231 Virginia 226-33
232 North Carolina 232-27
232-236 West Virginia 236-25
237-246 North Carolina 237-45
247-251 South Carolina 247-59
252-260 Georgia 260-47
261-267 Florida 267-99
268-302 Ohio 281-82
303-317 Indiana 308-92
318-361 Illinois 342-72
362-386 Michigan 373-94
387-399 Wisconsin 394-92
400-407 Kentucky 405-23
408-415 Tennessee 411-45
416-424 Alabama 423-17
425-428 Mississippi 425-51
429-432 Arkansas 429-57
433-439 Louisiana 438-53
440-448 Oklahoma 440-84
449-467 Texas 467-67
468-477 Minnesota 477-02
478-485 Iowa 479-06
486-500 Missouri 499-88
501-502 North Dakota 502-02
503-504 South Dakota 503-04
505-508 Nebraska 508-11
509-515 Kansas 510-88
516-517 Montana 517-04
518-519 Idaho 518-11
520 Wyoming 520-04
521-524 Colorado 524-43
525 New Mexico 525-53
526-527 Arizona 527-99
528-529 Utah 529-59
530 Nevada 530-08
531-539 Washington 535-94
540-544 Oregon 542-11
545-573 California 561-81
574 Alaska (Vietnam Vets) 574-76
575-576 Hawaii 576-27
577-579 Dist Of Columbia 577-11
580 Puerto Rico (V. Vets) 583-97
580 Vigin Islands 580-19
581-584 Puerto Rico 583-97
585 New Mexico 585-51
586 Guam (Vietnam Vets) 586-78
586 American Samoa 588-78
586 N. Mariana Islands 586-78
586 Philippines 586-78
587 Mississippi 587-49
588 Mississippi NOT USED YET
589-595 Florida 589-30
596-599 Puerto Rico NOT USED YET
600-601 Arizona 601-14
602-626 Califonia STARTED IN '90
700-728 RailRoad Retirement NOT USED YET

There you go, that should make your life just a little bit easier... Ok,
now for a brief description of how the middle 2 digits move. Ok, when a
number is first put into use, like 602 (CA) it starts on 01, then goes to
03, 05, 07, 09, then changes to 10, and goes up all even number until 98,
where it starts over at 02, 04, 06, 08, then 11 on up all odd. 00 is never
used. So if it's on like 535-94, and you want to find someone around 30
years old, what you do is take 30, subtract around 5, multiply by 2, and
subtract from the middle two. Simple, huh? hehe, here's the equation form:
OLDMID - ( ( AGE - 5 ) x 2) = NEWMID And I always thought algebra was stupid
worthless boring shit... Well, I guess it still is, but at least here it's
useful. The reason you subtract 5 is because most people don't get social's
until they start school, which is usually around 5 years old.
One negative to the abuse of SSN's is the fact of the publics growing
awareness of just how important a Social is. The more they know, the less
they are willing to let us manipulate them. The only thing that we have in
our favor is the lame-ass government will help to downplay the situation, so
they won't appear to be the chumps they are. Because, my dear friends, without
their GRAND insight, all of this would never have been possible.


Well, I have to plug some of the other files that I have written, so here's
where I'll do that. Also, listed are some books I would recommend to anyone
from beginner Fraud-Loser to Supreme Fraud-GOD... Anyone can benifit from
it... Hell, as the government so wisely has said... "READING IS FUNDIMENTAL".
One side note on that quote and the governments stupidity... It's target was
Americas illiterate... Well, what I want to know is how many fucking il-
literates know what fundimental means? Please, all illiterates give me your
views (think about it).


CARDING, MY WAY -part 1 : Covers all the basics of Credit Card Fraud
CARDING, MY WAY -part 2 : Covers most of the advanced tricks to carding
more successfully. Gives a working knowledge
of CBI (now EquiFax) Services usage.
BREAKING & ENTERING 1-3 : My file on Breaking into buildings... More
along the criminal scene, but hell, aren't most
of the people reading this wanna-be criminals
anyways? Read this file and learn from my

NEW ID IN AMERICA : Not by me, and not a GPhile, but an AWESOME book
sold by Palidan Press on establishing a new
identity. DEFINANTLY worth adding to any true
Anarchist/Criminals collection.
THE OUTLAW REPORTS : By Lee Lapin, a book that is just filled with
useful info on everything from IDs to AutoTheft.
THE SPYGAME : Formerly Ninja 1990, this is the updated sequel
to How to get anything on anybody, winning thru
super-technology. It is definantly worth $30...

One thing that I would ask is that if you do decide to get these book, even
though it goes against everything I know, I ask you to please PAY for them,
and don't give the companies that sell these any shit... Look at it this way,
if they go under because we all card from them, then we'll be fucked because
I doubt Waldenbooks is ever going to carry any of these! Some other files of
mine to look for are: Unconventional Warfare, Devices & Techniques (taken
directly from the US Army Manuals, 6 parts totalling 200k!); Bic Balistics;
Where to get Weopons; The Rock Box; and 800's 4 me! Also be on the lookout
for more files coming up, including such wonderful topics such as Auto Theft
and Creating False Identities... Which, like all of my files, were completely
test by me.


I hope you found the info in this file useful. Its all been tried and tested
by yours truely and his helpful band of thugs. Hopefully you won't end up
carding yourself across America, working on changing your identity, but if you
do, take the advice of someone who's there; When you leave your past, you have
to leave both the good and the bad. So if this means you don't call mommie-poo
and daddie-poo for a couple of years, so be it. It's the price you decided you
were willing to pay in order to play. And if you decide that you are sly
enough to still keep in contact with them and be free... More power to you, and
I'll come visit you in jail, unless I'm sharing the cell with you. Okok,
enough with the negative stuff. Now it's time for me to greet the only people
who have been there the whole time for me. On the top of the list is The White
Rider, who without his help, I wouldn't be typing this right now - You're the
best dude! Maximum Overdrive, although you really lagged on helping me, you're
still a pretty cool guy. The Sparrow, stop using drugs loser! You used to be
a killer hacker! And here's a note for all you up and comming frauders/carders
/criminals... Share any and all information you get... Being a jew with
information doesn't help anyone, only the company you're abusing. If Gord the
Rogue is still out there, GET IN TOUCH WITH ME! That also goes for Razor Ratte
(Shit man, you moved from 415 never to be heard from again). Captain Zap,
what's up man? Get in touch with me too! Phelix the Hack... You dissappeared
like almost everone else! Call me! And now for some normal greetings go out
to... Strato Viper, Traxster, LE Pirate, Grandmaster Ratte, Dr Ripco, Death
Mage, Mr. Drunkfux, Shatter, Crypt Roamer, Quinn, Single Sideband (are you even
still around?) and anyone else I forgot that was worth mentioning.
Finally, if you would like to contact me, for questions, comments about this
file, suggestions for upcoming files, etc... feel free to leave me mail on any
of the boards at the end of this file. If I'm not in jail or dead I'll reply
to you (hehe). Anarchy today, for a better tommorow!
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